embroidery

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Overhangs made of what were originally three valances belonging to the complete set. Embroidered with flowering trees, birds, and, in the center, a medallion showing a landscape with a large flowering tree surrounded by deer.
A Collector’s Eye
Author: Donna Ghelerter In celebration of the third annual New York Textile Month, members of the Textile Society of America will author Object of the Day for the month of September. A non-profit professional organization of scholars, educators, and artists in the field of textiles, TSA provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination...
Image features a rectangular sampler, in the upper half, a record of the births of members of the Sacket family: Stephen Sacket born May 23 1752. Eunice Lovering born Dec. 23 1748. Married Nov. 25 1776. Steph'n Sacket Jr. born Aug 7 1777. Eunice Sacket born April 25 1779. Hannah Sacket born Aug 7 1781. Sally Sacket born April 21 1786. Daniel Sact. born Sept 23 1790. Followed by a verse: "In prosperity friends are plenty In adversity not one in twenty." With scattered floral motifs and the initials SS in the lower half, and a floral border on three sides. The black background is embroidered on natural colored cloth. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.
Sacket Sampler
The unstructured nature of this family register sampler, initialed “SS” and attributed to Sally Sacket (b. 1786), is typical of eighteenth-century examples. In contrast to the more organized genealogy samplers that appear after 1800, the text here is run together in continuous lines. Sally’s sampler is one of a group of three Westfield, Massachusetts, examples...
Image features: Embroidered and appliquéd rectangular panel with floral and geometric patterning. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.
Recycled Jamdani
Jamdani is a Persian term for the extremely fine hand woven figured muslins made in Bengal. Thicker cotton threads laid individually into the weft produce the illusion of a suspended pattern on the surface of an almost transparent cloth. Intricate color motives seem to float on the cloth. Jamdani is generally thought to have derived...
Image features: Patches embroidered with flowers and 'japonaise' patterns all in the same grey/blue thread on muslin foundation. The date 1900 is embroidered in the center and there is a repeating border around the edges. The outline the embroidery patterns is visible under the motifs. Backed with white cotton, quilted in straight lines. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.
An Elaborate, Stylized Presentation
Donated to Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum by New York-based textile dealer Elinor Merrell, this bedcover offers an opportunity to see how motifs employed in America were influenced by distant cultures. In the hands of a highly skilled needle-worker deft at using stem-stitch, satin-stitch, and button-hole stitch techniques, a rare coverlet was created. This block-style...
Image features muslin embroidered with a floral motif in gold threads and blue-green beetle wing "sequins." Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.
Wearing Wings
From the archives, an Object of the Day post on an example of iridescent design from the collection.
Image features: Black cotton taffeta with a single vertical column of white embroidery down the center. The 37 three-dimensional embroidered motifs include butterflies, birds, flowers, and the word PEACE. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.
Forest Parade
Akira Minagawa opened his first minä perhonen fashion boutique in Tokyo’s Shirokanedai district in 2000, and began showing his collections in Paris in 2004. Forest Parade, introduced as part of the Spring/Summer 2005 collection, has become an iconic design for the brand. “Perhonen” means butterfly in Finnish, and this design includes butterflies, birds, flowers, branches,...
Image feature: Embroidered sampler with bands of alphabets and numerals, floral and geometric borders, and an inscription. At the bottom are two trees, one surrounded by birds, the other with birds flying away from it; the trees are identified as 'The Good Tree' and 'The Evil Tree'. The verse reads: Let Virtue be a Guide to Me When this you see Remember Me. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.
Massachusetts Sampler
Sally Follansbee’s 1787 sampler is part of a group of samplers from the towns of Newbury and Newburyport, Massachusetts. These works can be identified by a number of motifs that were reused and modified from the 1750s through the early 1800s. The stylized floral band on Sally’s piece appears on samplers by several Newbury and...
Image features: Patchwork cover made from a variety of woven fabrics and ribbons. Diamond shape in the center with a triangle on each side to form a central square surrounded by twelve squares plus an outer border. Each square contains an embroidered naturalistic flower. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object.”
A Family Tradition
Cooper Hewitt is fortunate to have in its collection two quilts made by close relatives: Caroline Hammond Reed and her daughter-in-law, Frances Kingsley Reed, from Anderson, South Carolina. Both quilts were donated by Helen Allen Stanbury, a New Yorker who was a native of Anderson. Frances Kingsley Reed (1845–1902), wife of Caroline Hammond Reed’s son...
Length of fabric in which squares of various woven and embroidered white Nuno fabrics are machine stitched to a water-soluble base cloth which is then dissolved away, leaving an open ground with 'floating' scraps. Please scroll down to read the blog post about this object
Tradition and Technology
In celebration of Women’s History Month, March Object of the Day posts highlight women designers in the collection. Tsugihagi was designed by Reiko Sudo, one of Japan’s most important contemporary textile designers. Educated at Musashino Art University, she and Junichi Arai (Japanese, 1932–2017) were the co-founders in 1984 of the Japanese company and store, NUNO,...
The natural linen woven base cloth is stretched in tension on a wooden frame. Skeins or coils of bleached linen are alternately twisted in the 's' or 'z' directions, and anchored to the foundation by sewing them with strong linen thread using a semi-circular needle, allowing the artist to control and stabilize the volume.
Macro Embroidery
In celebration of Women’s History Month, March Object of the Day posts highlight women designers in the collection. Cour de Rohan, which bears the name of Sheila Hicks’s home in Paris, is an example of the artist’s “macro-embroidery” process, a scaled-up version of the embroidery stitch known as point de couchage or point lancé et...
Guilford Sampler
This sampler was worked by nine-year-old Elizabeth Starr Fowler (1822–1904) shortly after the death of her mother. It is unusual in that it combines elements of a traditional alphabet sampler with those of a mourning piece. At the top of the sampler are several rows of alphabets followed by a verse. The bottom section includes...
What’s in an Art Lesson?
This Object of the Day  celebrates one of many treasured objects given by Clare and Eugene V. Thaw to Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.  It is republished here in memory of Eugene V. Thaw. Click on this link to read more about the Thaws and their gifts to Cooper Hewitt.    Heads down with pencils and brushes...
Six Years and Twenty-one Days
Elizabeth Ann Harpin Andrew was born on September 26, 1749, and stitched this sampler at the age of six. She ornamented her work with highly stylized floral motifs, framed with four-leaf clovers in a chain-link border. Elizabeth recorded the sampler’s completion date as October 17, 1755, and carefully calculated her age on that date as...
Concord Sampler
Hannah Cutter’s sampler is part of a large group of related examples worked from about 1790 until at least 1805 in Boston or nearby towns in Middlesex County. Typical characteristics of these samplers are deeply arcaded borders surrounding a central panel comprising an alphabet, verse, and pictorial elements framed by a saw-tooth border. The pictorial...
A Harrisburg Sampler
This sampler was worked in 1828 [or 1825] by Ann E. Kelly at the Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, school of Leah Maguire. The central scene is either biblical or classical, and was undoubtedly inspired by a yet to be identified print source. It depicts a woman holding a long garland of flowers who appears to making a...