Author: Kimberly Randall

Ducharne sample book
Fresh Floral Prints from 1940
François Ducharne (French, n.d.), owner of the luxury textile company Soieries F. Ducharne, sold his colorful printed dress silks in France and the United States. Ducharne started his business in Lyon, France in 1920, likely inspired by the successful and profitable collaborations between artists and textile manufacturers such as Raoul Dufy’s (French, 1877–1953) partnership with...
flat purse with a drawstring top
A Souvenir from Turkey
This charming purse from Turkey likely was produced for the growing market of foreign visitors as international tourism developed in the nineteenth century. It was made using a hooked needle similar to a tambour hook. The technique is an Eastern Mediterranean form of needle knotting, alternately referred to as bebilla, bibila or oya, and it...
Small piece from a set of bed hangings, with an all-over pattern of bees on a fine net ground. On the left side, a column of lilies and their foliage. A scalloped edge is formed of gracefully curving laurel branches surrounding clusters of berries.
Malmaison Bed Furnishings
This valance fragment is just a small piece from a set of bed furnishings commissioned by Napoleon I (1769-1821) for his wife Joséphine (1763-1814). Intended for their home in Malmaison, located outside Paris, the commission consisted of a ceiling canopy, pair of curtains, bed cover and valance. Made of fine point d’Alençon lace by the...
Woven souvenir based on the painting 'Portrait of Henry VIII' (c. 1540) by Hans Holbein the Younger (1497-1543). "W.W.L. CO. 1963 DEL. H.H." appears below the portrait. Black, burgundy, golden-yellow, white, and salmon on white warp.
Not Just Any Label
In 1978, Cooper Hewitt received a gift of twenty-two jacquard woven souvenir portrait ribbons from Lisa Taylor, the museum’s director at the time. The series was produced by the Warner Woven Label Company, Inc. of Paterson, New Jersey, which every year made a single souvenir ribbon based on a famous master portrait painting in Western...
embroidery of cream feather-like design
Guimard Embroidery Sample
Hector Guimard (French, 1867–1942) is best known for his architectural works, in particular his iconic Art Nouveau subway entrances for the Paris Métro company. Guimard’s designs employed sensuous curving lines and natural organic forms that transmitted exceptional elegance. For Guimard, architectural design was all-encompassing; every interior and exterior detail was considered as a total work...
leather sample book
A sample book for somber attire

This sample book, dating from the late nineteenth-century, contains very fine examples of woven silks from Como, Italy. Since the sixteenth century, Como has been a center for luxurious Italian silks. Lake Como and nearby Alpine streams give the region plenty of water to support sericulture. Close to Lake Como is the Po River Valley where mulberry bushes, the food of silkworms, were widely cultivated.

Border made up of a repeat of two images, each image flipped to form a unit of four. The images are a mermaid and a bird and cornucopia.
A Greek Embroidered Band
In 1953, Cooper-Hewitt received from Richard C. Greenleaf (1887–1961) a gift of twelve pieces of embroidery and lace. One piece was an unusual band made in the Greek Islands in the eighteenth century. Embroidered using long-armed cross stitch in red silk on cream-colored linen, a portion of the design was copied from a much older...
black lace head covering
Lace in Fashion: Chantilly
In the mid-nineteenth century, a style of bobbin lace commonly known as Chantilly achieved a great popularity that endured in varying degrees until the end of the century.  The town of Chantilly produced lace for the French court in the eighteenth century, but ceased operations during the French Revolution. In the early nineteenth century, lace...
book opened with a page with inserts of textile with dogs and birds
Shirtings by Cocheco, 1882–1888
By the late nineteenth century, the United States was producing millions of yards of roller printed cotton fabric each year. One of the most successful print works in the northeast was Cocheco Mills of Dover, New Hampshire, which produced textiles for fashion and interiors. Their fabrics were well-designed and affordable, which meant those in the...